Western Crete Juni 2003 (Georgioupolis, Hotel Fereniki)

After spending our holidays in Portugal last summer now we returned to Greece. In 1999 we only visited the east part of Greece's largest island so we decided to make a trip to Western Crete.

The town Georgioupolis

Georgioupolis (speak: Yuyupoli) is located at the western border of a 12km long sandy beach between Chania and Rethymno. In the east of the town many hotels were built in the last years. There you can find some tavernas and markets, too. In Geo the harbour is used by some fishermen. There you can rent small boats for a trip on the river. Following the old road to Vrisses you should take a view on the Eucalyptus alley. There is a paddock where you can book rides through the surrounding area.
But back the town itself: The centre is a memorial at the main square. Around this you can visit 6 bars. Our favourite one was the Sunlight - fine cocktails, delicious icecream and fair prices. In the side roads there are many tavernas. We recommend the Taverna Babis at the street leaving the Northeastern corner of the square. If you walk on some meters you can see the All-Time-Snackbar with some Greek fastfood (Pita Gyros, Souvlaki and Burger). At the end of that road the taverna Metropol is located. Here we got our dinner but they have also a menu for normal guests. Beside Greek food they have some experimental dishes - try it!
Next to the taverna a small river disembogues to the sea and creates a small sandy peninsula. This was our favourite place at the beach. The wet sand doesn't get hot and you can wash away the salty seawater in the (cold!) river. If you want to go on east you can take a shortcut and walk through the estuary (few above the knee). At the town there is a narrower and well filled beach.
Back again at the main square: At the southern side (opposite the kiosk) you can find a cheap market with all you need. Following that street in eastern direction you reach the minigolf area (3 EUR p.p.) with a nice playground. 50m behind it you can't miss the main church. It is opened in the evening so take a look in it! Following the street from main square passing the kiosk you reach the new National Road. There is the bus stop with connections to Chania and Heraklion (via Rethymno) every hour. There are some connections especially for tourists (Monastery Arkadi, Elafonissi) - take a look at the flyers at Rethymno bus station.

Hotel Fereniki

Fereniki is located at the main part of the town. In the last years some of the hotels in the neighbourhood were brought, e.g. the Metropol and Fountoulis Apts. Due to this the room's interieur differs. Our room was located in the main building. It is surrounded by 2 swamps so every evening the same program: hunting mosquitos. The hotel itself has some green areas and stairs so it is no ugly building as the large tourist bunkers from the 70s and 80s. But there is no children attraction, no hotel-own playground. The rooms are equiped in Cretan rustic-style (like the Heliotrope). Our room was large (too large for moskito-hunting) with a real double bed. The rooms for 3 persons are as large as ours but with a narrow french bed and a single bed. That's a little bit small especially with a child. All rooms have seaview sideways but in the first 2 floors this view is stopped by the reeds (swamp).
Catering: The breakfast is served in the roof garden at the top of the hotel. It was monotonous, every day the same one kind of sausage, tea, cheese and so on. The tables were stringed with polythene sheet and the floor was grey so it looked a little bit filthy although the tables were wiped of after each guest. The team had problems with the dishes - plates, knifes, cups - one of them was out everytime. The dinner was served in the taverna Metropol at the beach. This was very fine. At the buffet was served: one kind of noodles with sauce and two main dishes (one Greek).
Conclusion: The Fereniki is lower medium-class, don't book breakfast.

Excursions

The touristical infrastructure is well prepared in Geo. You can rent cheap fine bikes at Ethon on the north side of the square (there you get a useful map of the surrounding area). At Ethon you also can book excursions with Klados Travel. Another agency of Klados is next to the Fereniki. Prices are about 1/3 below Thomas Cook. Because Geo is the most western village in the holiday area of Rethymno you will be last for pickup in the morning and the first one who is back at hotel. So you can enjoy your breakfast. For trips to the 3 cities of Crete (Chania, Rethymno, Heraklion) you should use the bus (one every hour).

Chania (bus)

The city in the west of Crete is influenced by the Venecians and the Turks. A mosque can be visited at the old harbour. It is cosy in the old alleys. Many shops offer all kinds of leather. You can make a good bargain here but compare the prices! Don't miss the old market hall on the way from bus station to harbour.

Rethymno (bus)

After visiting Chania we went to Rethymno. The tourist beach already starts in the inner city so here you find more shops than in Chania. The visit of the old harbour might become unpleasant. The area is occupated by restaurant tables, only a small way can be used for walking. On both sides the waiters speaks to the people passing through try to make them joining the taverna. At the latest after the third one it is nerved and you flee in the small quiet alleys of the old town. Here you can feel the spirit of that city.

Knossos/Heraklion (bus)

Last time we went to Crete we didn't visit the Palace of Knossos. So we make up for it now. The bus takes about 2 hours from Geo to Heraklion central bus station. There you take city bus to Knossos (last stop, every 10 minutes). Since the beeginning of the 20th century archeologists lay the old Minoan Palace of Knossos open. Some buildings were restored so the non-professional visitor gets an overview on the dimensions of the construction, too. The entrance fee is high (6 EUR per adult), but as an EU-student you get free entrance. Behind the till some guides offer guidances through the palace. But with a good book and the boards there everything is easy to understand.
Back at Heraklion Inner City you can go shopping. There are only few historical buildings here, primarily at the bank. A city wall girdles the inner city.

Lake Kournas, Kavros (bike)

A nice bike trip is a visit of the Lake Kournas, Crete's largest sweat water lake. You leave Geo southwards following the signs to Kournas. It is an easy way without long gradients. At the lake you can rent pedal boats (7 Euro). It is not possible to swim in the lake. At the southern bank the way is missing so no round-trip around the lake is feasable. From there you should take a side trip to Kavros, the hotel area 4km away from Geo. Here you can play minigolf or have a fine lunch at Stelle (at the old road to Geo).

Exopolis, Vrisses (bike)

To explore the west side of Geo we hired bikes again and started to the mountains. First we cycled to Exopolis, a small village 150m above Geo. The view over the bay compensates the exertions. From there a flat road leads to Kalamitsi Alexandrou. Here you should turn off left through the village and follow the serpentines down to Vrisses. Here they are attuned to tourists, some tavernas next to the river are ready for guests. After the bridge the road left leads back to Geo. It is the old road with a small gradient so the bike cycles itself. A few meters after Vrisses it is possible to visit the museum of the Family Braudakis, they deal with alcohol (Ouzu, Raki), olive oil and herbs

Imbros-Gorge (Klados Travel, entrance fee 2 EUR)

Actually we wanted to take Imbros as a warm up for Samaria, but here we already reached our personal (holiday-)limit. In contrast with its "sister" it was created by an earthquake so the sides match exactly. So the gauge is narrower than the Iron Gate at Samaria, you can touch both sides with your arms at one time (so these are about 2 meters). Here you find many trees, the gauge is green. At the middle the rangers offer some drinks to the hikers (here's a toilet, too). There the donkey waits for emergencies (it is the only way to get an injured person out of the gauge). The Imbros is about 8 km long so it takes about 2,5 hours to go through it. The floor is covered by debris so it is not easy to walk. Children should be at least 11 years to pass the gauge without problems. Imbros is a pleasant option to the Samaria.

Elafonissi (Klados Travel)

Just to see another beach than only Geo's we booked a trip to Elafonissi, a small island at the southwest corner of Crete. First we followed the new national road to Kastelli. Then the bus turns off into the White Mountains. The road is narrow and the bus fits tight (a doubledecker would crash at the rocks). The first stop is the monastery with the golden step. It is located on a rock above the sea. 2 monks and a nun live there. It is the only monastery in Crete without entrance fee. From the monastery the bus takes only 5 minutes to Elafonissi beach. From Crete you have to wade through the sea to the island (the water reaches up to the hip). The sand on the island is a little bit pink (from the mussels). You can rent umbrellas and sunbeds but it is twice as expensive as on the northcoast. The lunch at the cantina there has high prices but is well visited. On our way back we stopped at a small cantina at the road. The 2 elder people sell drinks at their caravan, the other caravan is the kitchen. The lunch tasted well (test the goat!) and the prices were reasonable. Before entering the bus the waiter offers raki. Don't drink too much, the road is curvaceous.

Conclusion

Now we also knew the west part of Crete. Geo has a nice athmoshere. The Fereniki is a usable hotel but don't expect luxuries.

Imbros-Gauge	Minoan Palace at Knossos
Old alley at Rethymnon	Elafonissi